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Luxury Briefing: Tapestry, Capri and the American fashion portfolio shakeup

In this week’s Luxury Briefing: The fallout from the failed Tapestry-Capri merger continues, with Tapestry selling Stuart Weitzman and Capri reportedly eyeing divestments of Versace and Jimmy Choo. Also, news to know and luxury executive moves. If you have comments on this briefing or tips for future editions, please email me at zofia@glossy.co.The American luxury conglomerate dream is dead — at least for now. After the $8.5 billion Tapestry-Capri merger was blocked by a federal judge last year,...
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London Fashion Week Briefing: Why designers are rethinking the runway

London Fashion Week has a noticeably pared-back schedule this season, as economic uncertainty, shifting brand priorities and a decline in sponsorships continue to reshape the fashion calendar. To showcase their seasonal collections, a growing number of designers are stepping away from traditional runway formats in favor of more intimate and immersive experiences.Patrick McDowell is among the designers who opted out of a physical show this season, instead hosting an intimate dinner on the rooftop...
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Designer Norma Kamali on the power of AI to keep a designer's legacy alive

This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →Subscribe: Apple Podcasts • SpotifyFor over five decades, Norma Kamali has been at the forefront of innovation in fashion, from pioneering digital retail in the 1990s to integrating AI into the design process today.Kamali’s latest collection, which debuted at New York Fashion Week this month, marks a return to her sig...
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Burberry’s return-to-office mandate sparks employee backlash

Two months into the new year, employee frustration at Burberry Americas is mounting. Under the leadership of CEO Joshua Schulman and Americas President Laura Dubin-Wander, the luxury brand is undergoing cultural and operational shifts, including a return-to-office mandate that has left employees feeling blindsided and micromanaged, Glossy has learned. The brand is set to show its latest collection at London Fashion Week on February 24.In mid-December, two weeks before the holiday, employees work...
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Luxury Briefing: Why Kering and Mytheresa reported diverging fortunes 

In this week’s luxury briefing, Kering sliding further into the red while Mytheresa reports a jump in sales. If you have any comments on this briefing or tips for future editions, please email me at zofia@glossy.co.Kering’s full-year 2024 earnings reflect a luxury powerhouse in flux. Revenue slid 12% to $18.5 billion while recurring operating income plunged 46% to $2.8 billion. Free cash flow from operations clocked in at $1.5 billion — a silver lining in an otherwise challenging year.Gucci, Ker...
Glossy •

Luxury Briefing: Why Kering and Mytheresa reported diverging fortunes 

In this week’s luxury briefing, Kering sliding further into the red while Mytheresa reports a jump in sales. If you have any comments on this briefing or tips for future editions, please email me at zofia@glossy.co.Kering’s full-year 2024 earnings reflect a luxury powerhouse in flux. Revenue slid 12% to $18.5 billion while recurring operating income plunged 46% to $2.8 billion. Free cash flow from operations clocked in at $1.5 billion — a silver lining in an otherwise challenging year.Gucci, Ker...
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Exclusivity continues to drive demand for Hermès

Luxury giant Hermès is standing firm against the broader industry’s slowdown, reporting €15.2 billion ($16.4 billion) in revenue for full-year 2024, a 15% increase at constant exchange rates and an 18% jump in the fourth quarter alone. Hermès’s core business — leather goods, jewelry and ready-to-wear — remains resilient. Operating income grew 9% to €6.2 billion ($6.7 billion), with a net profit of €4.6 billion ($5 billion), keeping the company’s profitability at 30% — among the highest in luxury...
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Glossy 101: What is tariff engineering, and why is fashion paying attention?

Since Donald Trump reignited tariff threats earlier this month, fashion brands have been scrambling to navigate the fallout. Tariffs aren’t just abstract policy shifts — they hit where it hurts: supply chains, product pricing and profit margins. Enter tariff engineering, a behind-the-scenes strategy that has quietly become a go-to for brands trying to stay afloat.So, what exactly is tariff engineering?Think of tariff engineering as a bit of creative problem-solving. It’s when brands design or tw...
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Corp-core dominates NYFW, offering signs of the times

At New York Fashion Week this past weekend, the runway’s latest fixation was clear: Corporate Core. But it wasn’t your average boardroom chic. Instead, the collections from brands like 5000, Khaite, Fforme and Brandon Maxwell showcased a nuanced take on suiting — one that intertwines sharp tailoring with layered cultural commentary.In short, this resurgence of structured, office-inspired fashion mirrors a societal shift toward reclaiming stability and authority in an era marked by uncertainty an...
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At NYFW, does fewer shows mean bigger impact?

At New York Fashion Week, the lineup is noticeably leaner. Running from February 6-11, the CFDA’s calendar features 54 shows — fewer than in previous seasons — raising the question of whether NYFW is slipping further from its once-unshakable position as the cornerstone of American fashion. While the week is still drawing big names, the shrinking number of designers choosing to show in New York underscores an ongoing shift in the industry’s priorities.“I’m not surprised the schedule is shrinking,...
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Ralph Lauren's holiday magic: Double-digit growth, AI-powered bears and a presidential medal

Ralph Lauren exceeded expectations this third quarter, with global revenue up 11% and double-digit growth reported across all regions. The brand’s direct-to-consumer business, which now comprises two-thirds of overall sales, posted a 12% increase in comparable sales. Adjusted gross margin expanded by 190 basis points to 68.3%, driven by a 12% rise in average unit retail and a more than 500 basis point reduction in global discount rates.“Our retail business led our performance again, delivering d...
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Capri Holdings pivots Michael Kors pricing strategy after missteps, bets on Versace luxury

Capri Holdings’ latest earnings call on February 5 painted a picture of a company course-correcting after pricing missteps at Michael Kors, while Versace and Jimmy Choo leaned further into quiet luxury strategies. It was also the first earnings call after the merger between Tapestry and Capri fell through in November.“The merger was highly distracting for the management team, and we didn’t have as much time to focus on long-term strategies,” Capri Holdings CEO John Idol said on the call. “Now, w...
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Fashion’s new trade crisis: How brands are scrambling to navigate Trump’s tariffs

On February 1, President Donald Trump enacted sweeping tariffs on imports from Canada, Mexico and China, marking one of the most aggressive trade moves in recent history. The tariffs, which take effect on February 4, impose a 10% tax on Chinese goods entering the U.S. On February 3, planned Mexican and Canadian tariffs of 25% were halted for a month after conversations with the president of Mexico and Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau. Positioned as a move to protect American jobs and curb...
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Fashion brands are balancing 'Returnuary' losses with resale revenue

January has long been a pain point for retailers. Known as “Returnuary” in the industry, the month sees a surge in product returns, particularly items from holiday sales. This year, brands are doubling down on resale strategies to mitigate losses and extend the lifecycle of returned goods. According to the National Retail Federation’s December report, returns are projected to account for 17% of all merchandise sales in 2025, amounting to $890 billion worth of merchandise — a significant increase...
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Fashion Briefing: How Alo Yoga is using Roblox to get Gen Z to its stores

This week, a look at how digital wellness on Roblox is bringing Gen Z to Alo Yoga. Also, executive moves and other news to know.In a gaming landscape dominated by high-energy experiences, Alo Yoga is carving out a new niche on Roblox focused on wellness and mindfulness. Since launching Alo Sanctuary on Roblox in 2022, the experience has amassed 118 million visits, showing an appetite for “digital calm.”“This is not just a typical gaming experience,” said Nic Hill, co-founder and chief innovation...
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LVMH reports unexpected growth amid tariff challenges and workplace allegations

LVMH, the luxury conglomerate behind Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Tiffany & Co., reported a strong financial performance for full-year 2024, with revenue reaching $88.3 billion (€84.7 billion), marking 1% growth year-over-year and beating Morgan Stanley analyst expectations of a 1.6% decline. Net profit for the group stood at $20.4 billion (€19.6 billion), underscoring the resilience of the world’s largest luxury group despite an increasingly challenging global economic environment.The comp...
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Sephora’s 2024: record earnings, Sephoria wins and global growth

Sephora continues to be a standout within LVMH’s portfolio, achieving double-digit growth in revenue and profit as revealed in the luxury house’s full-year 2024 earnings, reported on Tuesday. Its strong performance is a testament to the “lipstick effect,” where consumers turn to smaller luxuries like cosmetics during economic downturns.


This trend has bolstered Sephora’s market share in North America, France, Italy, the Middle East and Latin America. The U.K. has also been a Sephora success s...
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Designing fashion in the AI era

Artificial intelligence has been making inroads into the fashion industry for years, with its impact on design beecoming more apparent as more designers experiment with generative AI tools. While much of the conversation around AI has focused on marketing and logistics, a quiet revolution is happening in design studios, where fashion brands like Gruppo Teddy, Merrell and Puma are harnessing AI to enhance creativity and streamline workflows.Mattia Giorgi, head of AI and innovation at Gruppo Teddy...
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Inside the growth of Net-a-Porter's sustainable fashion-focused Net Sustain

When Net-a-Porter launched Net Sustain, its sustainability-focused product category in 2019, it started with just 26 brands. Now, it features nearly 200 brands, with more to come in 2025, reflecting the demand for sustainable fashion among its luxury customers. “It’s about creating a platform that champions brands committed to doing better for the planet and its people,” said Vikki Kavanagh, managing director of Net-a-Porter and Mr. Porter. “As a retailer, the carbon footprint of all our brand p...
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Luxury Briefing: Luxury marketing is taking on gaming

This week, a look at how luxury footwear brand Manolo Blahnik is leveraging gaming to market to Gen Z. Manolo Blahnik is the latest luxury brand targeting young consumers through a gaming partnership. The brand is teaming with Drest, a 6-year-old mobile game that lets players style avatars with luxury products. The game relaunched at the end of last year with new brand offerings, including one allowing brands to partner on “quests.” Quests allow Drest users to complete interactive brand challeng...
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Shiseido shuts down metaverse projects, implements layoffs

In December, Shiseido shut down the metaverse and web3 projects housed under its emerging technology and platforms division, according to a source recently employed by the company.The move follows a series of strategic changes within Shiseido, including the elimination of leadership roles at its brands including Clé de Peau. These adjustments were revealed in the months following the release of its third-quarter 2024 results in November. Compared to the year prior, Shiseido’s consolidated net sa...
Glossy •

Shiseido shuts down metaverse projects, implements layoffs

In December, Shiseido shut down the metaverse and web3 projects housed under its emerging technology and platforms division, according to a source recently employed by the company.The move follows a series of strategic changes within Shiseido, including the elimination of leadership roles at its brands including Clé de Peau. These adjustments were revealed in the months following the release of its third-quarter 2024 results in November. Compared to the year prior, Shiseido’s consolidated net sa...
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Coach CEO debuts new collection and material innovation at CES

Fashion brands have a larger presence at this year’s Consumer Electronics Show, taking place this week in Las Vegas.Revolve’s leadership team spotlighted the company’s AI retail innovation, Adidas executives spoke about the company’s innovative approach to the creator economy, and Coach CEO Todd Kahn debuted the brand’s latest material innovation in collaboration with four-year partner Gen Phoenix.At the event on Thursday, Coach announced a line of Coach Classic products produced using Gen Phoen...
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Walmart's marketplace ambitions and the impact of the 'Wirkin'

With an increasing focus on third-party sellers and luxury goods, Walmart’s marketplace is becoming a key element of its growth strategy, and the numbers show it’s paying off. According to Walmart, the marketplace elevates the company’s profile as a digital shopping destination by adding higher-profile, in-demand brands that its customers are searching for but are not typically distributed at Walmart. In December, there was much buzz surrounding Walmart’s “Wirkin,” a third-party seller knockoff...
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